Plan Your Work and Work Your Plan: Susan Haake Curator, Lincoln Home National Historic Site Part 2 "The
only thing self-cleaning around here is the cat."–Anonymous In
part 1 of this technical insert, we went over the creation of a housekeeping
plan. Now it is time to get down to the details of housekeeping. Most of us
probably have a general idea of how to safely move and clean the historic
objects in the collections: always support the object from the strongest
point–usually the base, not extensions such as arms or handles; wear gloves
unless handling ceramics and glass; start with the gentlest and least abrasive
cleaning methods and work up to stronger methods only if absolutely necessary.
Here are some other ideas to try and mistakes to avoid when cleaning artifacts. General
Cleaning Dusting
Use
soft cloths, such as flat, 100 percent cotton diapers, on horizontal surfaces.
The static-cling dust cloths currently commercially available, such as Grab-Its
or Swiffer, should not be used. You may have noticed that these
cloths–especially the scented versions–leave a residue on your hands; they also
leave this same residue on the items that you have cleaned. These cloths have
not been available long enough to determine their long-term effects on
furniture finishes. Cloths with static-cling or "magnetic"
properties, often sold under the brand name Dust Bunny, are available from
museum supply sources such as University Products or Light Impressions. These
cloths have not been processed in the same way as have Grab-Its or Swiffer and
may be used safely. On nonporous surfaces, use a damp cloth, magnetic cloth, or
a cloth sprayed with Endust. Endust is the only "safe" spray cleaner
recommended since it does not contain wax, silicone, or other materials that
can build up over time. As with any cleaner, spray it on the cloth, not the
artifact, to control where the spray goes and to prevent it from running into
joints. Soiled dust cloths should be washed in hot water and bleach and dried
thoroughly. The static-cling cloths may be washed but not bleached and must be
dried to renew their "magnetic" quality. Vertical
or intricate surfaces may be dusted using a soft brush or a vacuum hose covered
with a fiberglass screen, secured with a rubber band, to catch any loose
pieces. Some painted surfaces may be cleaned with water and Orvus soap, a very
mild cleaner available at farm supply stores or museum suppliers. Always
spot-test on an inconspicuous place first. If a product or method does not
work, be sure to mark it in the housekeeping plan or catalog records so that
future housekeepers do not try it again. Windows
Remove
all window coverings and furniture from the area. A small drop-cloth may also
be used to protect the window sill and floor. If ultraviolet filtering material
is used on the window, check with the manufacturer for specific cleaning
directions. Thoroughly check the stability of the frames and the glass. Be
especially careful with stained glass or painted glass concerning the stability
of the leading and the finish and do not clean if either is failing. Use equal
parts of vinegar and water in a marked spray bottle and, again, spray on the
cloth, not on the window. Start from the top and work down and have another
person steady the ladder. Window
Coverings When
cleaning blinds and shutters, turn the slats to the closed position and wipe
from the top down with a damp, soft cloth. Turn the slats to the opposite
direction, switch sides on the blinds or shutters, and wipe down from the top
again. Vacuum or brush dirt from the tapes as needed. Dust roller shades with a
brush or soft cloth. Nonhistoric draperies can usually be dry cleaned, but
check the manufacturer’s instructions first. Historic draperies should be
examined by a textile conservator prior to any cleaning. Floors
If
possible, install a carpet runner in areas used by visitors. This limits the
wear and tear on reproduced or historic carpet. Runners can be removed for
cleaning and are relatively inexpensive to replace when worn. Some museums
require visitors to wear disposable booties (available at medical supply
stores) to protect rugs. Nonhistoric
carpets and rugs may be vacuumed with an upright vacuum. Avoid canister vacuums
since it is difficult to keep track of both the vacuum head and the canister
tank, especially in crowded areas. Pad the base of the vacuum cleaner, if
needed, to prevent marking or damaging baseboards. Historic rugs can usually be
vacuumed using the vacuum hose attachment covered with a fiberglass screen to
avoid pulling threads into the vacuum. Wooden
floors should be dry-mopped frequently. For a more thorough cleaning, use a
damp string mop, making sure not to strike the baseboards. Clean the areas close
to the walls by hand. Remember that not every historic home originally had
shiny waxed floors. Wooden floors develop a patina that should be appreciated.
If waxing is required for a historically accurate appearance, use a nonskid
paste wax. To protect the baseboards, it is preferable to apply floor wax by
hand, but in reality it may be necessary to use a polishing machine. Remove all
furniture, and lift draperies high above the floor and the machine to avoid
catching them. Tile,
stone, and marble floors may be mopped using a small amount of Orvus soap and
hot water and a damp string mop. Rinse with warm water. Don’t forget to close
off the room while the floor is drying, or put a caution sign in place to warn
visitors and staff to avoid walking in the room. Books
The
most damage to books often occurs when they’re taken off the shelf. Do not pull
a book out using the top of the spine. Instead push back the books on either
side slightly, grasp the book in the center on both sides of the spine, and
pull straight out. • Hold
books firmly closed and wipe off with soft cloth or magnetic wiping cloth, or
vacuum with a brush attachment when dust is extensive. Brush away from the
spine. • Covers
and edges of books can be brushed or vacuumed with very low suction. If pieces
of the cover are loosened, be sure to save all fragments for conservation. • Work
from top to bottom, remove books in shelf order to a cart, and wipe off the
shelf. Remove any acidic inserts like bookmarks, paper scraps, or pressed
flowers and place in an acid-free folder. Maintain these items with the catalog
records. Return the books to the shelf in order. • Store
volumes of similar size together to discourage warping and distortion. Furniture
Do
not use polishes containing silicone or linseed and other slow-drying oils.
They are all difficult to remove and could cause damage to the original finish
by attracting and sealing dust into the surface finish. Wooden
Furniture Endust
sprayed onto a clean cloth can be used on finished wood since the product does
not contain silicone. A cloth dampened with water may also be used, but this
must be tested first in an inconspicuous spot and immediately followed by
buffing with a dry cloth. • If
the furniture has a wax finish, rewaxing is not necessary as long as the
existing layer can be buffed to a sheen. Generally a wax finish will last one
to four years. Artifacts that are frequently touched may need rewaxing more
often. • If
waxing is necessary, use paste wax to polish furniture; test first to make sure
it does not soften the finish. • Never
wax furniture on a humid or hot day. The wax will not set properly and will not
harden to the finish needed to protect and seal the surface. • Use
wax sparingly; too much wax produces a sticky surface that attracts dust. Two
thin layers are preferable to a single thick one. • On
irregular surfaces, apply wax with a very soft child’s toothbrush. After
drying, buff with a soft fiber brush, such as a shoe brush, padding the ends of
the brush to avoid damaging objects. • Tinted
wax may be used. Check light-colored waxed areas for whitish specks in the
pores of the wood after the solvent has dried (this may take several weeks).
Remove the specks with a wooden toothpick or use a darker wax next time. Rush
or wicker • Brush
along the grain with a soft brush. • For
rough or hard-to-reach areas, compressed air can be used to blow out the dust.
It must not exceed five pounds of pressure. Do not use compressed air that
contains chlorofluorocarbons (CFC). CFCs have a damaging effect on the earth’s
stratosphere. Glass
and Ceramics Never
soak glass or ceramic artifacts, especially those that have been repaired.
Soaking may soften the adhesives used for repairs. Glass that has been broken
and repaired can be cleaned with a towel dipped in an ammonia and water
solution. • Record
the catalog numbers of the items being cleaned in case the numbers have been
improperly applied; they inadvertently may be removed by washing. Numbers
applied with permanent ink under acryloid should not be affected. • Iridescent
finishes should not be cleaned often, and only with a damp cloth when
necessary. • Wash
the piece in warm (not hot) soapy water with Ivory flakes or Orvus soap.
Use two tubs, one for washing and one for rinsing. Wash each piece separately.
Rinse with distilled water to avoid mineral build-up. • For
stubborn stains at the bottom of narrow-necked bottles and vases, uncooked rice
(not instant) may be used as a last resort to get out deposits. Swirl a small
amount of rice with water into the container. Pour out and do not reuse. Make
sure all grains have been removed. • Check
for any loose paint or finishes. If none is present, use cotton swabs or a
moderately stiff brush to get into crevices. Wash from the top down and rinse
with distilled water. • If
the glass does not have metallic decoration, a splash of ammonia can be added
to the rinse water to prevent spotting. • Dry
the piece immediately with soft towels, preferably linen or cotton. A hairdryer
can aid in drying, but it must be set on cold at low speed and held at a
distance as the object is supported. • To
dry the interior of narrow-necked bottles, rinse with alcohol, or roll up a
paper towel and make sure it reaches the base of the bottle and still sticks
out of the top. The paper will draw the moisture out. • Do
not immerse porous and soft-paste ceramics or Parianware in water. Use damp
cotton swabs instead. Metals
Precautions
Always
wear Nitrile scientific gloves, often sold under the name Safeskin. These
gloves are similar to rubber or vinyl gloves but do not damage metal; they also
protect your hands against the drying effects of metal polishes. Do not use
gloves treated with chlorine, which includes bleached cotton gloves, since
chlorine leaves tarnish marks almost immediately. Carefully
examine the surface for an original coating. This includes shellac, patina
(real or applied), or gilding. Do not remove this coating. Before
removing rust, make sure there is something under it to save. Test with a
magnet for ferrous objects. If the magnet is not attracted to the object, no
iron remains and the rust should not be removed. The rust may be the only
indication of the original size and shape of the artifact. Never
store pewter on or in oak furniture unless it is well ventilated and separated
by Mylar. The tannins in the oak will react with pewter and cause corrosion. Cleaning
• If
the piece is structurally sound with no original coating, brush off any loose
dirt, guiding the dirt towards a vacuum hose. • If
light polishing is all that is needed, use a jeweler’s cloth to polish and
buff. Jeweler’s cloth is impregnated with a dry polishing agent, like jeweler’s
rouge, to remove light tarnish. Often a buffing cloth is attached to the
polishing cloth for convenience, but use a separate cloth to buff the object.
Change the buffing cloth frequently as it becomes dirty; this will help you to
avoid rubbing the tarnish and dirt back onto the artifact. • Tarnish
should be removed only when the object is being displayed. It otherwise forms a
protective barrier. Remember that polishing removes some of the original metal
each time. • Tarnishing
can be slowed by placing objects in polyethylene bags after wrapping them in
unbuffered acid-free tissue; store the objects in a very dry area (silica gel
in a cabinet creates an ideal micro-climate for metals). A thin layer of
microcrystalline wax can also be applied to help slow tarnish. Polishing
• Accession
and catalog numbers should be recorded before cleaning since polishing may
remove the numbers. • Cover
nonmetallic elements with thin sheets of clear polyethylene or Mylar for
protection. • Test
an inconspicuous area with denatured alcohol on loose cotton; that may be all
that is needed to polish the piece. Follow up with a light buffing using
flannel or more loose cotton, changing it frequently to avoid scratching the
surface of the piece with dirt and tarnish. Allow the object to dry completely.
• Remove
wax or oils with a cotton ball dipped in mineral spirits. Note: Always clean
metals in a well-ventilated area. Use a rolling motion rather than rubbing, and
change cotton often. • Do
not allow liquid to penetrate hollow areas that are difficult to dry. • For
heavier polishing, mix a small amount of precipitated calcium carbonate and
denatured alcohol in a shallow dish until it is the consistency of heavy cream.
Lightly rub this onto object with flannel or cotton, changing out dirty pieces
often. • Remove
residue with cotton dipped in denatured alcohol, and buff with flannel. • Coat
the object with a tiny amount of microcrystalline wax. Wait a minute or two to
let it dry and buff with old silk or old nylon hose. • Periodically
dust with a soft natural-bristle brush. Soft or medium natural-bristle
toothbrushes, jewelers watch brushes, oil-painting bristle brushes (sizes 4—6),
or stencil brushes should be used. Paper
Surface
cleaning can be accomplished with a soft brush after a careful inspection to
check for loose or powdery material. A type of loose eraser powder, sold as
Opaline and Scum-X, may also be used. Test a small area of print first for
stability by placing the eraser powder on the surface and gently rubbing with
the pad provided. Wet cleaning should not be undertaken. • To
remove mold, brush off the surface or, preferably, use a low-suction vacuum
since mold spores can spread through the air quickly and easily. Try to do this
outside in good weather. • Wax
can be removed by scraping off as much as possible with a very dull knife, but
take extra care to avoid tearing the paper. Any remaining staining can usually
be removed with a cotton swab dipped in mineral spirits. Test in an
inconspicuous spot first. • To
remove oil or grease, roll a cotton swab soaked in acetone gently over the
stain. • Mylar
encapsulation of nonparchment documents helps postpone the need to clean and
provides protection for the documents. Parchment should be stored in unbuffered
acid-free folders and boxes. Textiles
Vacuuming
is the only procedure that is recommended for the nonspecialist to use in
cleaning textiles. Both sides of the textile should be vacuumed through a
fiberglass screen with the edges taped to avoid catching on any threads, or the
screen may be wrapped securely around the hose attachment. The screen will
prevent loose threads, beading, or cloth fragments from being sucked into the
vacuum. • Check
textiles, especially folded ones, frequently for possible pests. If pests or
mold are detected, isolate the textile in a plastic bag until a conservator is
consulted. • Do
not allow stains to set over a long period of time. If possible, determine what
made the stains before consulting with a conservator. If dry-cleaning is approved,
arrange for a consultation with the dry cleaner to examine the textile
together. Point out all stains and weak spots. There
are many other types of artifacts that can be cleaned in-house, but a
conservator should be consulted first. Check with the American Institute for
Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC) at
<http://aic.stanford.edu> or call (202) 452-9545 to find a conservator
who can help. Tools
and Equipment Keep
tools clean; wash brushes with a mild solution of Ivory soap flakes or Orvus
and water. Dust cloths can be washed with regular detergent and bleach, but do
not use fabric softeners. The
following is a list of the materials mentioned in the discussion of cleaning
methods above, as well as other items that are useful for housekeeping. Each
material or item is followed by the purpose for which it is usually used. The
subheadings in this list give possible locations where the materials may be
purchased. However, the sources listed are just suggestions and are not the
only places where they may be found. Hardware
or Discount Stores (i.e., Wal-Mart, Big R) Acetone:
removes oil and grease from metals. This will also remove acryloid and ink, so
use with caution around catalog numbers on artifacts. Ammonia:
cleaning floors, ceramics, and glass Brushes
(natural-hair, artists, paint, photographic, shaving, shoe): used to clean
hard-to-reach places Buckets:
storing cleaning materials, general cleaning Cloth
diapers, 100% cotton, flat: general cleaning Cotton
pads: general cleaning Cotton
swabs: general cleaning Dishpans:
cleaning glass and ceramics Distilled
water: rinsing glass and ceramics. Dust
mop with removable mop head: cleaning floors Ear
syringe: blowing dust out of crevices Endust:
cleaning furniture Fiberglass
screening: vacuuming textiles and furniture Isopropyl
alcohol (rubbing alcohol): cleaning metals Ivory
soap flakes: general cleaning Jeweler’s
cloth: polishing metals; may also be found in jewelry stores Lamb’s
wool duster: general cleaning Loose
cotton and/or cotton balls: polishing metal. "Homemade" metal polish
paste can be made from precipitated calcium carbonate chalk, distilled water,
and alcohol. Recipe: 1 part alcohol, 1 part water, small amount of chalk. Mix
until it is the consistency of heavy cream. Apply sparingly and rinse
thoroughly. Keep any extra in a tightly sealed glass container. Mineral
spirits: removing old polish from metals or old wax from wooden artifacts Paper
towels: general cleaning Rice,
uncooked, not instant: cleaning narrow-necked glass or ceramics Steel
wool, 000 or 0000 grade: removing light rust from metals String
mop: cleaning floors Tinted
paste wax: polishing wooden furniture Vacuum
attachments: keep one set for "clean" things like textiles; use
another, marked "dirty," for floors Vinegar:
cleaning glass or ceramics Museum
Supply Stores Call
for catalogs: Light Impressions, 800-828-6216; University Products,
800-628-1912; Gaylord, 800-448-6160 Acid-free
tissue, buffered and unbuffered: padding folds in textiles Gloves,
cotton and Nitrile (Safeskins): general cleaning and metal polishing; Nitrile
gloves may also be purchased from scientific material suppliers Magnetic
dusting cloth (Dust Bunny): general cleaning Microcrystalline
wax (Renaissance Wax): top-coat metal and wood polish Mylar
sheets: protecting areas from wax or polish; storing papers Orvus
soap: general cleaning Polyethylene
bags: small and/or multipart artifact storage Polyethylene
foam (Ethafoam): padding artifacts for storage Powdered
erasers (Opaline or Scum-X): cleaning paper Silica
gel: used with storing metals Vacuum
with hose attachment wrapped in polyester netting and HEPA filter: serves many
cleaning purposes; variable speed is preferred White
vinyl (art) erasers: cleaning paper Pharmacy
or medical supplies Surgical
booties, disposable: walking on historic carpets Bibliography
An
asterisk denotes a work that is available from the IHA circulating library. Reference
Works *Butcher-Younghans,
Sherry. Historic House Museums: A Practical Handbook for Their Care,
Preservation, and Management. New York: Oxford University Press, 1993. Fred
Woods Productions. Housekeeping for Historic Sites. Video. Cambridge,
Mass.: National Park Service, New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and
Historic Preservation and the Society for the Preservation of New England
Antiquities, 1996. *Lewis,
Ralph H. Manual for Museums. Washington, D.C.: National Park Service,
1976. *MacLeish,
A. Bruce. The Care of Antiques and Historical Collections. Nashville:
AASLH Press, 1985. Raphael,
Toby. Exhibit Conservation Guidelines. CD-ROM. Washington, D.C.:
National Park Service, Division of Conservation, 1999. Reilly,
James M. Care and Identification of Nineteenth-Century Photographic Prints. Rochester,
N.Y.: Eastman Kodak Company, 1986. Sandwith,
Hermione, and Sheila Stainton. The National Trust Manual of Housekeeping. London:
Penguin Books, 1986. Schultz,
Arthur W., gen. ed. Caring for Your Collections. New York: Harry N.
Abrams, 1992. Technical
Leaflets The
following technical leaflets are offered by various organizations in
downloadable form from the Internet or in printed form. Each series covers a
variety of topics. Many of these leaflets are available from the IHA circulating
library. CCI
Notes. Canadian Conservation Institute, 1030 Innes Road, Ottawa,
Ontario, Canada K1A 0M5. <www.preservation.gc.ca/howto/grid_e.asp>. Caring
for Your Artifacts–The Care and Preservation of . . . Henry Ford
Museum and Greenfield Village Internet Research Services. Research Center, The
Henry Ford Museum, P.O. Box 1970, Dearborn, MI 48121-1970.
<www.thehenryford.org/explore/artifacts/default.asp>. Conserv-O-Grams.
National Park Service, Museum Management Program, 1849 C Street N.W.,
Room NC 230, Washington, DC 20240.
<www.cr.nps.gov/museum/publications/index.htm>. How
to . . . Congress of Illinois Historical
Societies and Museums (now Illinois Association of Museums), One Capitol Plaza,
Springfield, IL 62701. <www.illinoismuseums.org>. Technical
Inserts. Illinois Heritage Association, 602 1/2 East Green Street,
Champaign, IL 61820. <www.illinoisheritage.prairienet.org>. Technical
Leaflets. American Association for State and Local History, 1717
Church Street, Nashville, TN 37203. <www.aaslh.org>. Technical
Leaflets. Northeast Document Conservation Center Internet Resources,
100 Brickstone Square, Andover, MA 01810-1494. <www.nedcc.org> |